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Unlike the other deadly sins, gluttony is visible and so is often judged harshly, as if heft were always evidence of indulgence or laziness. (The link between genetics and metabolism was not discovered until the 20th century.) In particularly hard times such as the two world wars, fat people were seen as traitors. Greater access to food and a rising stigma against podge helped inspire the fashion for corsets in the 17th century, which caused overlappingribs, bad breath and the occasional death. When it comes to diets, women occupy a perversely central place, argues Ms Foxcroft. They are condemned for their gluttony, criticized for their vanity, manipulated for their insecurity and also blamed for the flab on their husbands and children.
Until the 18th century, ideas on diet were mostly about healthy eating, morality and control. Laxatives and emetics were common, but many philosophers and physicians had sensible ideas about restraint and nutrition. By the early 19th century complaints about fat became prevalent, as even the working class had moved from the fields to the calorie-rich cities. This created a larger market for dieting solutions, particularly fads such as cold-rain douches, chest beatings, electrode zappings and massages. The 19th century saw a chap named William Banting bring the first low-carbohydrate diet to a mass audience. A study in the Lancet later confirmed the value of favoring protein and fat over carbohydrates well before a once overweight cardiologist named Robert Atkins figured this out for himself.
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